Yes, I had
dreams. Dreams of finishing five loops; dreams of being the oldest
Barkley finisher ever; dreams far more embarassingly fantastical and
story-book than either of these. And yes, they died. (Que an old Allman Brothers Band song here.)0
I came prepared
for five loops: Five quart baggies filled with Lara Bars, Paydays,
Cliff Bars, bottles of 5-hr energy drink, instant Starbucks
sweetened iced-coffee packets, and something new - zip lock baggies
of mac 'n cheese I had prepared at home. I packed extra clothes and
a space blanket should it get cold, or should I have gotten lost.
I'm sure I have
more than enough hubris,1 and I have trained pretty hard.2
I have learned some about using a map and compass. I have visited
the Frozen Head twice to hike the "legal" trails and learn
the general layout of the park. However, deep inside, I knew none of
this had been enough. My bowels were betraying any level of
confidence my heart wanted to believe I had.
Fear was my
ever-present companion since I've received my Letter of Condolence.
So quickly my fantasies turned to anxiety upon arrival of that email.
Even in the hours at the park just before the sounding of the conch,
I battled the temptation to pull out of the race. In spite of all
the race reports I'd read, I still wasn't sure what to really expect,
just that whatever it was, it was going to be hard. The Veterans had
a huge advantage: mental pictures and memories of the course, and
notes and maps from past attempts. Having none of those things gave
me a lot of idle time, and opportunity for new anxieties to develop.
More and more often I was questioning why I was there.
One of my
wife's dear friends, Tina, gave her a verse of Scripture to pass
along to me: "Be strong and courageous and get to work. Don't
be frightened by the size of the task, for the Lord my God is with
you; he will not forsake you. He will see to it that everything is
finished correctly."3 I hadn't attempted to memorize
Scripture in years, but I was able to get fragments of this one,
especially the lines "get to work," and "don't be
frightened by the size of the task." They came to me often while
I was "out there."
----------
Friday morning,
Laz arrived and we exchanged a warm greeting. He eventually handed
out the directions, and set out the map for copying. It was crunch
time. Once I'd given Laz my license plate and received my copy of
the Official Barkley Marathons Instructions For 2016 (course
directions), I headed back to camp and started underlining every
detail I thought I might need later. This took nearly an hour.
Copying the map
was stressful. I tried very hard to draw my lines down the exact
ridgeline Laz used on the Master Copy, while looking over shoulders,
checking, double-checking, finally putting marker to paper.
Nerve-wracking! I headed back towards camp only to realize ten
minutes later that I hadleft the course directions back at the map
table! Panic!!! But there they were, right where I had left them.
When will Laz
blow the conch? Jim Ball has convinced me that it will be around
mid-night, but Saturday arrives and still no signal. Will he wait as
long as he did last year? I passed the time putting zinc oxide on
the exposed parts of my feet and eating and drinking to stay calm,
resisting the temptation to walk mindlessly around camp burning off
nervous energy.
Finally, at
9:42am, the conch blows. That final hour went fast, but during my
last-minute trip to the bathroom, Mig told me that my trekking poles
were anchored in a very dangerous way, one that could put somebody's
eye out! With five minutes to go, I was working frantically to fix
the problem, even while Laz gave out last minute instructions. As
usual for my experience in a Laz race, I didn't actually see the
lighting of the cigarette, but people were moving, and I found a spot
near the back of the line.
|
Last minute instructions - photo by K.O. Herston |
|
Jim Ball and me climbing Bird Mountain - photo by John Price |
My goal was to
keep Hiram, a veteran who knows this course as well as anybody, in
sight, but as soon as we cross the Pillars of Doom, Hiram was gone
and it was pandimonium as everyone rushed into Fangorn to get to Book
1, every virgin desperate not to get scraped. (There is no
chivalry, nor are there good manners at the Barkley. You get your
page as quickly as you can and move! It's not really selfishness;
it's fear of being scraped, that and the legends passed down around
the campfires and blog entreaties of Barkleys past.) Karen and I
were the last two, until Benjamin, who overshot the book arrived. We
handed him the book and moved on. I took off my pack to get my
trekking poles ready, but I had trouble getting the pack back on and
snapped correctly, costing me time and frustration. The trekking
poles were supposed to be helpful, but at times they were my achilles
heel.
I followed
another runner down the ridge, but he was much faster and quickly
disappeared, leaving Karen, Ben and me to make our own way. As I
descended, I slowed myself by falling into trees, several which
snapped and fell forward (downhill), one landing on my head. Ouch!
Several more trees broke off near ground level when I attempted to
use them to control my descent, and Karen remarked that she could
follow me by the path of destruction I left in my wake.
We encountered
Patrick when we reached Phillips creek, where we were to join the
North Boundary Trail, but none of us took a compass reading. We went
the wrong way and climbed all the way back to the Cumberland Trail.
During this waste of a climb, I tried using my new trekking poles,
but a plastic adjusting/tightening connection popped out of the pole,
leaving me with one fully functional pole, a short handled section of
another, and a section with a spike. We encountered two hikers who
knew we were turned around and they directed us back downhill.
Already an hour was lost; the dream was slipping away.
Retracing our
steps, we hiked up to Jury Ridge and we didn't pick too bad of an
line for our next descent. We ended up at the bottom of a
convergence of two streams that we thought was the creek convergence
we were aiming for, but instead we spent another thirty minutes
looking for Book #2.
I have no idea
where we went wrong on our climb up the Hillpocalypse, but I don't
believe we ever encountered the High Wall we were supposed to work
around. My guess is that we traveled far to the right, and after at
least another hour of hiking, we finally found a coal road that leds
us back towards the NBT. I'm felt pretty good, not about the time
off-course, but that I was able to use what little map-reading skills
I possessed to find the trail. Of course, once on the trail, we
weren't sure if Bald Knob was to the east or to the west of us.
Almost
immediately, Kimberly, looking a bit frazzled, came running towards
us, greatly relieved to have found some fellow runners. Marianna and
Christophe also joined us, and together we again encountered the same
hikers we last spoke with a few hours before. Finally determining
that Bald Knob is east of us, off we went. I really enjoyed this
iteration of the group. Most of us had leadership at one time or
other, most of us made mistakes, but we hung together and it was a
great collaborative effort.
|
Patrick, me, Kimberly and Benjamin - photo by Karen Jackson |
We took a short
break at Book #3 and ate little bit. I believe we are already six
hours into the race, and I had hoped to make Garden Spot (Book #4) in
four. I took off my pack, unzipped the back to get a bottle of
Ensure out, and then put the pack back on, learned later that I
forgot to zip my vest pouch shut, and losing a brand new handheld
flashlight as a result. We took the wrong way around the Coal Ponds,
but Kimberly, the only veteran among us, remembered enough of the way
to get us to Garden Spot. Marianna led us directly to Book #4,where
a cairn had been built to honor all Barkley participants who have
departed from this life. We each solemnly added a stone to the
cairn.
It took us 8
hours to do the first third of the course. The dream of finishing a
loop with time to go back out was dead. Evening was upon us; temps
were starting to drop. Back and forth we went on the jeep road, but
we could not find the path that descended towards Barley Mouth
Branch. We explore other jeep roads, as much to stay warm as
anything. I knew we were close, but this wasn't horseshoes. We
hiked for at least another hour. Darkness descended. I remember
thinking that the only way we will find the descent is to wait for
the leaders to come through on their second lap, and as we were now
approaching ten hours, that would not be too far off. Depressing.
Marianna and
Christophe headed down a jeep road that I was sure was going the
wrong way. Karen, Patrick and Benjamin decided that it was too cold
to continue, and headed for Quitter's Road. Kimberly and I committed
to continuing on into the dark, even without a clue as to how we were
going to get to Book #5. The fellowship was broken.
As I had hoped,
Gary and Jared, the leaders, came running towards us, and offered to
lead us to the drop off. We wer so close; we had walked by it at
least six times! The others had a chance to join us, but opted to
continue their way back to camp. They had dressed for a twelve-hour
loop, and well past ten hours, we were not even half-way around.
|
Jared and Gary climbing Rat Jaw - photo by Chris Gkikas |
Gary paid
Kimberly and me a nice compliment for contining on when it would have
been so tempting to go back with the others. I treasured those words
for the rest of the adventure. There were reasons I didn't quit: I
didn't want to quit without seeing the course; I didn't want to quit
without experiencing being Out There at night; I didn't want to have
to look Laz in the face and try to explain why I must not have wanted
it bad enough. It helped that I wasn't cold, that I had plenty of
food and caffeine, and that Kimberly wanted a complete loop as badly
as I did. Down towards Barley Mouth Branch we plunged, descending
like the dream, from five loops to one, from fantasy to fiction to
reality.
They guys told
us we would reach a jeep road and should turn left. We did, but we
did not see Bobcat Rock and the trail down Leonard's Butt-Slide. We
marched right past it, turned around, and marched past it again! It
was cold, and we needed to keep moving, so Kimberly and I headed back
to the creek, ventured around the bend in the road, descended to the
creek and crossed it, only to discover there was nowhere to go that
way. We came across some abandoned mining equipment, rusting away
quietly just above the creek bed and I wondered if I was destined for
the same fate. Then Kimberly looked up and saw a headlamp on the
road above us. It was Starchy, who had just arrived at the jeep
road.
We followed
Starchy and he took us straight to Bobcat Rock! Frustrating, but a
relief at the same time. We descended Leonard's Butt-Slide, but
couldn't find the book. John Kelly came along on his second loop,
and he had trouble also. We descended further down, climbed back up
(a short, but very steep climb) and John finally yelled that he'd
found it! By the time I get my page and made my way up to the road,
Starchy and Kimberly were at Bobcat Rock (John long gone), looking
for the next path up to Hiram's Pool and Spa. Starchy and I walked
right past Book #6, but fortunately, Kimberly spotted it and saved us
some backtracking.
Starchy was
doing such a good job navigating that I make a big mistake: I quit
looking at my map and compass and contributing my input. It was a
hassle unzipping my pack pouch, pulling out my 200x reading glasses,
sitting down with the directions and map and trying to figure out
what was going on when Starchy did it all in less than a minute.
Still, an extra set of eyes and another brain (such as it is) might
have been helpful on the next descent.
There were
cliffs to work around, some climbing down, a loose rock that rolled
murderously towards the head of the person in front of me, some tense
moments and words, as we made our way down the ridge towards New
River. We ended up far to the right of where we were supposed to be.
Former finisher Andrew Thompson came along on his second loop, and
immediately began climbing a steep hill. We followed, but at the
top, he was long gone, and the highway we expected to find was
nowhere in sight. Back down we went. By now, all I had left of my
trekking poles were two stubs, the top section of each, so as I
climbed these steep ascents, I was bent over even worse than the old
man on the Aqualung album
cover.
Part way up the
next climb, we realize we had passed Book #7, so we descended yet
again. We encountered Mig who told us it was only a few hundred feet
back. We spread out a little until Kimberly found the book in a
hollow tree trunk.
Walk into
splintered sunlight,
inch your
way through dead dreams
to another
land
maybe you're
tired and broken,
your tongue
is twisted with words half-spoken
and thoughts
unclear4
I was
frustrated and getting down on myself. The name of a bluegrass band
from many years before came to mind, Old and In The Way, and it
really seemed to fit how I was feeling at that moment. I'm debated
whether or not to tell the others to go on without me. I'm slow. I
don't feel like I'm much help to the group, but I think that once
daylight comes, I'll be able to find my own way. However, instead of
voicing all of these thoughts, I pulled out my map and compass, took
a bearing, and announced that I was going "this" way and
started off into a thicket of rhodendrums. Kimberly was more than a
little frustrated with me, but Starchy followed. My bearing and
compass reading were right, but by not having an accurate idea what
our starting point was, my navigation brought us out on the top part
of Testicle Spectacle. At least now we know where we were. And
daylight was breaking.
The section
down to Raw Dog Falls went pretty well. I went my own way at Danger
Dave's climbing wall, and didn't really expect to see the other two
again. They were much faster climbers, and I was tempted to sneak
off to a sunny place where I could take a nap. I found an Old Man
Route around the wall, got Book #8 and climbed up to the road, where
to my surprise, they sat waiting for me. It was daylight now; my
spirits had improved and the loneliness and worthlessness I felt
during the night were passing; and I was thankful they were there. I
wouldn't be any faster on the climbs, but I also wouldn't have to
battle my thoughts alone as the heat of the day, fatigue, and the
effects of sleep deprivation worked their magic.
We climbed Pig
Head Creek, reached the Prison Mine Trail, and got lapped by
Jennilynn. The climb up Rat Jaw went better than I expected, and I
used up my water just before reaching the top. We filled our
bladders and bottles, and took time to eat. We had been out on the
trail for over 23 hours and Starchy and Kimberly were running low on
food. I pulled out my zip-lock bag of mac 'n cheese and gladly
shared.
Gary and Jared
were climbing Rat Jaw on their third loop as we descended. We also
met Heather, now on her second loop.) By the time we reached the
bottom, John Kelly was exiting the prison area. There was no way I
could keep my feet dry in the tunnel, nor did I have the climbing
skills to go up either of the towers. (Kudos to Jared, who climbed
them on all five of his loops.)
Bad Thing took
a while, but it was fairly straightforward. We didn't have too much
trouble finding the book at the top and we were anxious to begin our
descent down Zip Line. Again, stream after stream converged, leaving
us guessing as to when we are actually supposed to cross the creek
and when weren't. We spent a lot of time looking for a beech tree at
one convergence, until I finally gave up and began moving further
downstream. Suddenly, I heard my name being yelled from off to my
right. It was Dale Holdaway (followed by JT and Jason) and he told
me that the beech tree was only a little further down. Very soon we
found a confluence that had the right angle layout I'd been
expecting, went to the beech tree, got our pages, and rested before
climbing Big Hell.
I'm not sure
where we again encountered Jennilynn, but I believe it was during
this climb. Maybe it was because it was the last climb, maybe
because we were ready to be done, maybe because we'd been on our feet
moving for thirty hours, or maybe for any number of other reasons,
but this climb seemed to take forever. It deserves its name, We
finally reached the top, celebrated getting our last pages, and took
only a short breather before heading down Chimney Top Trail.
We were pretty
quiet as we walked. I was thankful for the downhill, but once we
encountered the Ridge Mountain ascent, I surrendered the point
position to the others. Somewhere along here we made a pact to
approach the Yellow Gate running and holding hands. I remember
feeling thankful to be included, apparently still harboring some of
those dark feelings from the night hours.
At the gate, I
asked Laz if we made the cutoff. I got no response, just a look from
under the brim of his hat. I told him that Barkley truly is the
place where dreams go to die and he asked me if any dreams did die
out there? I told him, "yes," but some came true also.
|
Running to the finish. Joel Gat is off to the right, in the flip-flops. - photo by Dan Henry courtesy of the Chattanooga Times Free Press - http://www.timesfreepress.com/news/local/story/2016/apr/06/barkley-marathons-race-eats-its-young/359012/#photogallery_1549 |
|
Touching the Yellow Gate - photo by |
|
Photo by Clark Annis |
Dave played the
best version of "Taps" I heard all weekend. Many wanted to
know exactly what happened to us Out There, but I was at a loss to
know where to begin. The only word I had was "convergences."
Too many convergences...
|
Asking Laz if we made the cutoff - photo by |
Our adventure
lasted 32 hours. We have been informed that we took more time to
complete a single loop than anyone in the history of the event. My
mind and heart are still trying to cope with the experiencing of such
a wide array of emotions simultaneously: exhileration, euphoria, and
complete humiliation. It's befuddling...
Afterwards:
The reception
for the three of us at the Yellow Gate was so positive. Instead of
laughing at us derivisely, people cheered and applauded our dogged
determination. Several offered me a beer, but all I wanted was an
ice cold Classic Coke, which Joel Gat was able to procur. Thanks
Joel!!!
Later, after a
shower, I did enjoy an IPA at Jim and Karen's fire, wrapped in one of
their fleeces, enjoying the comraderie (Chris Gkikas was there too)
until I started to nod off.
|
Jim Ball, Chris Gkikas and I, before the race - photo by Karen Tuell |
After six hours
of sleep, I woke up and just laid there, my mind wandering. I heard
"Taps" sounding for three runners and regretted not having
gotten out of my sleeping bag to be there to welcome them in. I spent
the rest of the night and the next day hanging out around the the
fire at HQ, enjoying fellowship with people I've come to enjoy so
much, and watching runners come into camp and head back out, each with amazing stories of their own to tell.
|
Laz and me after the race. I'm not sure who were talking with. - Photo by John Price |
Jared was the
only finisher, finishing in about 53 hours. There was a huge crowd
at the finish line, and he sat calmly and answered questions for 30 minutes or longer.
I thank the
Lord for the whole experience:
- for creating the
beauty of this part of Tennessee
- for Laz, Raw
Dog and all those that have had a part in creating and sustaining
this race
- for all the
other runners, their families, friends and crew, as well as friends
of the race, that joined together to make this the great event it was
- and for the
privilege of getting to do what I did this weekend. It wasn't all I
had hoped for, but perhaps in some hard-to-explain way, it was so
much more.
Laz and Dobies
had some fun with math at our expense...
-officially, we
traveled at an astounding pace of .625 miles per hour, 55 feet per
minute (try that at home for fun)
- had we done
the entire 100 miles at that pace, it would have taken us
approximately163 hours
- Robert
Youngren calculates that if we averaged 1.5 (unofficial) miles per hour, we may have wandered as far as 48 miles
during our loop, .
This caused Laz to proclaim that even though the Barkley course is
not a perfect circle, neither did it resemble a small intestine.
PS...Erik, on
his second loop, found my handheld while descending Bald Knob! How
cool is that?
Thanks to Henry
Spier for his 20 Self-Evident Truths. I didn't fully appreciate #20 until
today: that "the Barkley is the ultimate revealer of truth.
Most will find out that they are not as tough as they hoped they
would be...but all will be grateful and better for the experience."
I want to believe I am a better person for this experience; help thou my unbelief. :)
Footnotes:
0 - "Dreams" by the Allman Brothers Band
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8OR-nIqEzw
1 - Henry Spier's "Barkley Self-Evident Truths" #5
2 - ibid, #1
3 - I Chronicles 28:20, The Living Bible
4 - "Box of Rain" by Phil Lesh and Robert Hunter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bxh5olGxCYI
Other stuff:
a)
Barkley
Self-Evident Truths - Henry Speir
#0 - You can't learn if
you listen with your mouth. (Mike Dobies)
#1 - You toe the line at
the yellow gate with the training you have, not the training you wish
you had.
#2 - Weather happens - the
successful Barker wastes little time and energy on this and instead
focuses on aspects within his control.
#3 - There are two ways of
quitting at the Barkley: Direct and Indirect - Direct is the aspiring
Barker declaring, regardless of reason, that they are unwilling to
continue; Indirect is the lack of will to move at an appropriate pace
so as to not timeout.
#4 - Manage your calorie
intake; the successful Barker will not allow himself to even go into
"mico-famine" - if you are near the end of a loop and need
to eat, do so, don't wait to get in camp. attrib: Andrew
Thompson
#5 - One cannot make it
far at the Barkley without above average hubris. However,
hubris is also one of the leading causes of a Barkley attempt being
cut short. The successful Barker is aware of, and will manage
this.
#6 - There is no "wishing"
at Barkley - there is "vision" and the steadfast will to
then realize that vision.
Thompson
corollary: Once the switch is flipped, it can't be unflipped.
#7 - Go at a pace
comfortable for *you*. If you plan on going with someone else,
you are going at their pace, at some point this will be too fast.
attrib: David Horton
Corollary: The virgin
would be wise to seek a vet that is otherwise likely to move at a
slower natural pace than them
(see
self-evident truths #8, #9 and #5).
#8 - The most important
decision the Barkley virgin can make is which veteran they will try
to follow. Choose wisely. See:
Barkley self-evident truth #7.
#9 - The Barkley virgin is
a parasite and any self-respecting veteran will attempt to
"scrape"(drop) them at some point. See:
Barkley self-evident truth #8.
#10 - You will vastly
increase your chances at success if you know where you are and are
able to pick out where you are on the map at all times; keep track as
you progress and make a mental note as you get to each book or pass
significant terrain features. At some point, you are likely to
find yourself alone - see: Barkley self-evident truth #9
#11 - While "Out
There", the ephemeral "Barkley Friendship" can be very
fleeting, but also very useful. The successful Barker will
immediately recognize when it is no longer useful and move on with
haste. (be mindful, however, of Barkley self-evident truth
#5)
Corollary: The
successful Barker will instantly spot the mopey, blue, dead-weight
Barker and put distance between them
before
he is infected with negative, self-justifying talk about
quitting.
#12 - All other things
being equal, during the nighttime, the successful Barker will
leverage pairing or teamwork possibilities with those around him.
Being mindful, of course, of Barkley self-evident truth
#11.
Corollary: The
Barkley virgin is much less likely to be scraped at night. See:
Barkley self-evident truth #9
#13 - While "Out
There", the course is in command; between loops, YOU are in
command. The successful Barker will visualize, plan and
parsimoniously manage every minute between loops. What you do
or fail to do here could be the beginning of the end of your Barkly
outing.
#14 - If you haven't spent
much time with a USGS 7.5 min topo quad and can't tell the difference
between a draw and a spur, go back, re-read and double down on
Barkley self-evident truth #8
#15 - Ultrarunners:
Realize that all that trail running training and experience you have
is only tangentially useful at being successful at the Barkley.
Furthermore, some of the experience and habits you've gained in this
pursuit can even be somewhat counterproductive at the Barkley.
That is not to say that it's not useful at all; it's just not as
useful in preparing you for the Barkley as you likely assume it to
be. See: Barkley self-evident truth #1
Corollary 1:
"Mudder/Death/ToughGuy" type running events and experience
are even more useless.
Corollary 2: The best
comprehensive Barkley training is during the event itself; if you are
in, keep moving forward --
your
next chance is at minimum a year, but more likely more than a year
away!
#16 - Knowledge and
understanding of the actual Barkley course and how to navigate around
it is fundamental to success and goes without saying; however,
equally as important and useful, but often overlooked, is the "big
picture" of the park, its features and how they are all
interconnected and how the Barkley course fits and flows
within/around the park. (attrib: Jonathan Basham; also: laz,
Furtaw, others)
#17 - Implicit in your
desire to enter the Barkley and being granted entry into the event is
your steadfast commitment to self-extract and make your way back
to camp on your own power, accept under the most extreme of
circumstances. If you had the energy and fortitude to get out
there, then you should be able to get back on your own...without
bothering the locals, and bringing shame and disgrace to yourself and
the Barkley. (partial attrib: "Pit Viper" circa
2007; others before and since) See: Barkley self-evident truth
#16 and #10
every
barker has self-extracted.
no matter how long it took.
altho
some have hitch hiked back from some damned remote locations!
there
is a certain pride that no one has had to be found and retrieved over
all these years.
the weight of all the barkers who have
precdeeded you
and all the barkers who hope to follow
is on
your shoulders.
you got yourself out there.
you must get
yourself back.
laz
#18
- Navigating around the Barkley course is no doubt a challenge.
However, the primary driver for causing the once aspiring Barker to
quit is the cumulative effect of the brutal climbs and descents.
See: Barkley self-evident truth #3
#19 - The Barkley is a
riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma. (inspiration attrib:
Winston Churchill)
#20 - The Barkley is the
ultimate revealer of truth. Most will find out that they are
not as tough as they hoped they would be (or as most perceive them to
be); a select few will become legends. All will be grateful and
better for the experience.
b) from Laz on why a GPS isn't necessary during the Barkley
as for tracking your heart
rate,
i will save you the trouble.
you are going to
redline....
a lot.
if the term "redline" is
not part of your standard english vocabulary,
picture the gauges
on the dash of your automibile.
the meaning of "redlining"
should be obvious.
let me explain:
when the uphill slope
gets over 30%
most people have to redline their heart rate just to
move.
by the time it hits 40%
everyone has to redline to move
at all.
30 and 40% grades are all over the barkley course.
if
your heart cant take a licking
and keep on ticking
you ought to
give over your slot to a weight lister.
because you will die out
there.